Day 9 of 18: Nuremberg (Nürnberg), Germany

Day 9 (Tuesday, July 25) was a string of good news / bad news. As mentioned at the end of yesterday's blog, a European drought has resulted in shallow water levels on the Danube River, which means that we had to abandon our Viking longboat "Ve" in Nuremberg (Nürnberg) this morning and take a bus trip to Passau, Germany to embark on Viking's sister ship "Gefjon" in order to bypass the low river levels.

The good news was that Viking handled the ship transfer masterfully, including a wonderful meal at Heilig Geist Spital (Holy Spirit Hospital) restaurant in Nuremberg for a festive, traditional Bavarian lunch. The bad news was that Mother Nature did not cooperate, drenching us as soon as we stepped off the bus into a heavy downpour to start our tour of Nuremberg. We were soaking wet for the next six hours.

More good news was that our Nuremberg tour guide Karin was excellent. Keith and I ducked into doorway after doorway while following the group, listening to Karin's narrative on our headphones, trying unsuccessfully to dry off. After the tour and lunch, we were told that the bus ride to Passau was 1 hour 45 minutes, puzzling since our GPS said that a passenger car driving at high speed would take 2 1/2 hours. The bad news was that, unsurprisingly, it took us 3 1/2 hours by bus. More bad news was that we stopped for a restroom break near Regensberg, at a gas station with a single bathroon and a McDonalds next door. That's four buses with 190 passengers sharing two small bathrooms, following a big lunch of beer, sausage, and sauerkraut.

Fortunately, we finished the day with double good news: (1) upon arrival, the awaiting Viking ship Gefjon was identical to our prior ship, our luggage was in the identical stateroom and the crew of Gefjon was as exceptional as that of the Viking Ve; and (2) with all the rain throughout the day, plus more heavy rain through dinner, the Danube water level had risen to a level to safely maneuver back upstream overnight to Regensberg. Otherwise, we would have had to take another round-trip bus ride to Regensberg on Wednesday, in order to stay on schedule and enjoy our planned Regensberg city tours. First-world problems caused by Mother Nature (and climate change) we know, but all worked out well and we enjoyed the day. Viking demonstrated why they remain the #1 river, ocean and expedition cruise company.

Our Nuremberg tour started on the bus, driving past elements of the original six squre mile Nazi parade grounds, Palace of Justice (site of the Nuremberg Trials) and the outside of the old walled city of Nuremberg, with a 3.5-mile perimeter, surrounded by a medieval stone wall, moat and numerous watchtowers. Then we exited the buses for a walking tour of the old town. Here are some highlights from our walking tour and lunch:

Nuremberg Imperial Castle in the rain

View (?) of Nuremberg from Imperial Castle; Nuremberg was rebuilt after being almost entirely destroyed in WWII

Outside the wall of the Nuremberg Imperial Castle

Inside the Imperial Castle, with one of 80 watchtowers (Heathen's Tower) surrounding the old city 

A rare round watchtower (Sinwell Tower) at the Imperial Castle, and the Tiefer Brunnen (deep well) with the gabled roof in the foreground
 
Imperial Castle door to the old city

Door to Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)

St. Sebald Church, built 1225-1275, named for Sebaldus, an 8th-century hermit, missionary and patron saint of Nuremberg
 
Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) built 1352-1362 in place of a former Jewish synagogue
 
La Gelateria -- Cappuccino Italiano for Tom and JUMBO Cappuccino Italiano for Keith 

Entrance to "Holy Spirit Hospital" restaurant on the Pegnitz River in the former 200-bed hospital founded in 1339

Salad course, followed by Nurenberg sausage, sauerkraut and beer

Traditional Bavarian lunch for 190 in the Heilig Geist Spital restaurant 


Nuremberg's 14th century Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain), located on the main market. Nineteen meters high in the shape of a Gothic spire, the 40 colorful fountain figures represent the world view of the Holy Roman Empire.   

Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain)

Tomorrow, Wednesday, July 26, we visit Regensberg, the oldest city along the Danube, and (another) UNESCO World Heritage Site. Regensberg's old town Neupfarrplatz Square served as an ancient Roman gathering place, a thriving Jewish quarter, a bustling maretplace, and the site of Nazi book burnings.

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