Day 5 of 18: Koblenz and the Middle Rhine River

We started our day docked in medieval Koblenz, Germany, heart of the Middle Rhine region, and made our way by bus to a walking tour of the nearby 13th century Marksburg Castle towering 500 feet over the river. 

Viking Ve in Koblenz, Germany


Marksburg Castle was the only Rhine fortress to have never been destroyed. Difficult to reach and built with strong fortifications, it was never besieged by enemies. The tour included the living quarters, kitchen, torture chamber and former prison cells, and a collection of life-size figurines detailing changes to armor and weaponry through the ages. Today, Marksburg Castle is home to the German Castles Association, which works to preserve medieval fortifications all over Germany.

Guide Marc holding the key to Marksburg Castle

Carriage entrance to Marksburg, inside outer walls

Passing the 4th level of castle Marksburg fortification

Marksburg cannon battery

Wine cellar

Marksburg kitchen

Marksburg food pantry

Marksburg castellan family living quarters

Marksburg dining room

Marksburg music nook in dining room

Marksburg WC

Marksburg weapons collection

Marksburg collection of armor through the ages

Marksburg blacksmith

Upon return from the castle, we had lunch and began the journey along a breathtaking stretch of the Middle Rhine that leads to Mainz. This 90 kilometer (57 mile) stretch of the Rhine is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the Rhine flows fast and deep through the Rhine Valley. The steep hillsides are covered with vineyards, interspersed with medieval castles, while the river bed is host to numerous quaint towns.

Rather than try to curate this section of the Middle Rhine town-by-town and castle-by-castle, I'll just post a series of highlight photos. Those of you who have been here know that the Middle Rhine offers endless storybook views. If you are planning a trip, traveling by rail or auto is not the same. The Middle Rhine must be seen from the river and day-trips from Mainz to Koblenz are plentiful.

Rheinfels Castle in St. Goar, with its main structure dating to 1245

Katz Castle in St. Goarshausen, started in 1393 to reinforce the
Rheinfels Castle on the opoosite side of the Rhine River

During World War II, nazi forces concealed their rail tunnel entrances, making them appear to be castles or churches. To avoid nightly air attack, they would hide troops and weaponry inside these tunnels. The British used landmarks for navigation and to some extent they also avoided destroying cultural landmarks, so these tunnel entrances were often left untouched. Many were preserved after the war.

Another disguised rail tunnel entrance

Two of 18 towers along the wall surrounding Oberwesel, dating to Roman times,
with St. Martin gothic church on the hill

1,000-year-old Schönburg Castle in Oberwesel, partly restored in 1885,
now houses a youth hostel, hotel and restaurant. Liefrauen church in the foreground.

Schönburg Castle in Oberwesel, expanded and rebuilt over ten centuries

Gutenfels Castle in Kaub, built in 1200 by the Falkenstein famly, one of the most attractive and spacious castles along the Rhine, now operated as a hotel.

Pfalz-grafenstein, a castle built as a customs house in the middle of the Rhine,
dating to 1325, with Gutenfels Castle on the hill above.

Fürstenberg Castle above the town of Rheindiebach, built in 1219
to protect the archbishop's property around Bacharach

Sooneck Castle near Trechtingshausen, built in the early 11th centiry

The Lorelei Rock is near the midpoint of the Mainz-to-Koblenz route. It marks the river’s narrowest point and is named after the legendary Rhine maiden who lured sailors to their demise. Legends aside, the swift winding current has historically been treacherous for river boats to traverse and remains challenging today even with modern navigation aids. 


During dinner we passed Mainz, after which we changed direction, picking up the Main river that will take us past Frankfort and on to tomorrow's destination, Miltenberg. The Main river is smaller, slower and narrower than the Middle Rhine. On the Main, we will pass through over 60 locks, including 14 just this evening and tomorrow morning.

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