Day 11 of 18: Passau, Germany

Today is day 11 of 18 (Thursday, July 27) and we woke with the Viking Gefjon docked in the lower Bavaria city of Passau, Germany. Also known as Dreiflüssestadt (City of three rivers), Passau is located at the confluence of the Inn, Danube and Ilz rivers. The city has long enjoyed its strategic position and grew to great economic and political power because of it. Passau is also where the German-Austrian border begins.

Passau tourist brochure image of the confluence of the Inn, Danube and Ilz rivers. I added the  Viking ship dock position, St. Stephen's Cathedral and the Veste Oberhaus fortress.

Convergence of the Danube and Ilz rivers

Convergence of the Danube (foreground) and Inn river (background) 

Passau's population is about 50,000, of whom about 12,000 are students at the University of Passau. We took a guided walk along the town’s narrow streets through Old Town and past elegant colored buildings. We viewed the New Bishop’s Residence  and the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). On June 2,  2013, the old town suffered severe flooding as a result of several days of rain and its location at the confluence of three rivers. Peak elevations of floods as early as 1501 are displayed on a wall at the Old City Hall.

Rathaus or "City Hall"

Flood high-water marks on the City Hall building (2013 is second from the top; 1501 is the top mark)

Next we walked around Passau's magnificent gothic/baroque St. Stephen's Cathedral, located on the highest point of the city's Old Town. Over the centuries, many churches have been built and rebuilt on the site of the current cathedral, which was nearly destroyed in a 1662 fire that swept through Passau. The Gothic eastern facade was left standing, but the remainder of St. Stephen's had to be rebuilt. Its new construction between 1668 and 1693 was completed in baroque style, resulting in an east/west split of gothic and baroque architecture. Unfortunately, we could not see its ornate interior, because the organist was rehearsing for an afternoon concert. St. Stephen's is home to the largest cathedral organ in the world, with 17,974 organ pipes, 233 stops and four carillons. All five parts of the organ can be played from the main console.

Gothic east side of St. Stephen's Cathedral

Baroque west side of St. Stephen's Cathedral

In the afternoon, we took a self-guided tour of the Veste Oberhaus, a fortress positioned ~350 feet above the three rivers. From that vantage point, the differing colors of the three rivers are clearly visible. It also provides the best panoramic views of Passau.

Veste Oberhaus fortress, overlooking Passau

The long trek up the hill passed through various elements of the fortress' protection


Distinct color difference between the darker Danube and the lighter Inn river, visible from the fortress






View of old town Passau from Veste Oberhaus

The fortress was built in 1219 by Ulrich II, the first prince-bishop of Passau. As siege techniques improved over the centuries, Veste Oberhaus was repeatedly renovated and extended, beginning in 1255–56, so that it offers an opportunity to study fortification techniques from the 13th through the early 19th century. The inscription "1499" prominent on the facade refers to one of these renovations. The fortress was attacked five times between 1250 and 1482, each time without success. 

Veste Oberhaus with 1499 inscribed in the facade

Fortress wall extending down the hill, with hollow center for protective watch

Keith breaking through one of the levels of fortress protection

River-facing fortress wall

River-facing fortress wall atop a steep rocky hill

Tomorrow (Friday, July 28), we travel further down the Danube to the cities of Melk and Krems, Austria.

Panoramic view of Passau from Veste Oberhaus fortress



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